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A fairy tale winter diary

Dear Diary,

Winter is almost upon us, bringing with it my favorite season. This time, I’m eager to introduce my children to the beauty of the Swiss Alps, which gave me unforgettable experiences as a child. The plan is to explore the snowy hills of the Bernese Oberland with the family, far from the hectic city life, and simply enjoy the peace and quiet. And when it gets too cold, sip on a warm hot chocolate – I still reminisce fondly about those days. This season always fills me with a sense of warmth and love, which I want to share with my wife and our twins.
Since I’ve been to the Swiss Alps a few times already, I know exactly which region to focus my search on: the Bernese Oberland. It’s important that the hotel is close to the ski slopes, and that as many winter activities as possible are available right at our doorstep. This way, nothing will get in the way of our family time, especially since with two teenagers, you always need something planned – their agendas change by the second, after all...

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Beyond that,

we all crave a retreat that captures the magical atmosphere of winter in all its splendor. We simply want to get away from the hustle and bustle of daily life, into nature and peace. Our wish list includes a typical family hotel in Switzerland with an idyllic setting and an extensive spa offering. After an exciting day on the slopes, I long for soothing relaxation and treatments that rejuvenate both body and mind. Plus, the culinary aspect plays a key role in our winter experience. 

After an active day of winter hiking or cross-country skiing, we look forward to savoring the delicious regional dishes in a cozy restaurant. Quality time and fine dining are, after all, an essential part of our family getaway in this winter wonderland.
After thorough research, I now know where we’ll spend our next winter vacation: at the Gstaad Palace. Few other places in Switzerland combine all these qualities. Having been around for 110 years, it must be good – or so we tell ourselves. Time to put it to the test.

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Day 1: A Journey into Winter Paradise

The time has finally come... After a pleasant flight and a picturesque drive from the lowlands up into the snowy Swiss Alps, I spot it in the distance: the iconic Gstaad Palace, perched slightly above the village on a small hill. The kids are enchanted by the fairy-tale appearance of the hotel, which looks like a white castle. They can hardly wait to dive into the snow and conquer the ski slopes, while my wife and I are also excited for the upcoming days filled with snow sports like cross-country skiing and snowshoeing.

And there it is: the legendary revolving door through which Inspector Clouseau, alias David Niven, famously squeezed in “The Return of the Pink Panther.” I can’t help but smile. The lobby of the Gstaad Palace is already impressive, and it makes my heart race. We are warmly greeted and checked in by Barbara Branco-Schiess, the heart and soul of the hotel. The staff is incredibly attentive, and we immediately feel like part of the "Palace Family." We have arrived home. For our stay, I booked the Tower Suite with two bedrooms. The spacious 190-square-meter suite, outfitted with the finest materials, embroidered silks, and tasteful alpine furniture, offers plenty of room for family holidays. The absolute highlight is the bathtub in the tower of the palace. 

Many notable figures have retreated here – including British Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher, who even wrote her memoirs at the Gstaad Palace. I waste no time and run myself a bath. With a fantastic view of the sprawling, snow-covered garden and the mountain landscape, I submerge. The peaks with amusing names like Wildhorn, Oldenhorn, and Le Rubli (which means carrot) greet me, framing the world-famous village of Gstaad. I enjoy the moment, the relaxation sets in… what a glorious feeling to finally be here.

The day continues just as it started. After a slightly longer journey, we opt for a relaxing chill-out day at the Gstaad Palace. This allows us to explore the entire luxury hotel. My wife and I settle comfortably in the cozy lobby, enchanted by the magnificent view of the Wispile and the Lauenen Valley in their white snowy attire – the perfect setting for finally diving into my mystery novel. Meanwhile, the kids are having a bubbly time in the indoor pool and jacuzzi of the spa area. For dinner, we choose a culinary highlight and enjoy an exquisite menu at the hotel’s own restaurant, “Le Grill.” The rotisserie, boasting 16 Gault-Millau points, impresses us with its delicious specialties. Both the open kitchen and the superb food win over even our occasionally picky twins. It was a great start, and I can hardly wait to see what the coming days have in store.

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Day 2: A Day Full of Adventure

Today, unlike yesterday, we’ve chosen an action-packed day. Tobogganing is on the agenda, thanks to our children persuading us. Although I’m still a bit skeptical, we don’t want to deny them this wish. Once we reach the top of Eggli, Gstaad’s local mountain, things get serious: the snowy landscape whizzes past as we race down the hill. The panoramic view, including the Sanetsch Pass and Spitzhorn, is our constant companion. The cold air nips at my cheeks, and a feeling of freedom and excitement washes over me simultaneously. I have to admit, my skepticism was unfounded: sledding brings us all immense joy, and it will surely remain a lasting memory.
Fitting the rustic day out, I reserved a table for dinner at the fondue parlor “La Fromagerie.” The setting is amazing – the restaurant is located in the former bunker of the Gstaad Palace, where a Swiss bank stored gold during World War II. Now, we are served this “Swiss gold” in the form of a delicious cheese fondue, while surrounded by this historic atmosphere and laughing about our little mishaps while tobogganing.

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Day 3: Winter Activities as Far as the Eye Can See

The snow fun knows no bounds: this morning, my wife and I set out for cross-country skiing – the kids hit the slopes with their snowboards. They want to explore the largest ski area around Gstaad today, spanning between Rinderberg, Saanersloch, and Horneggli, offering over 105 kilometers of ski runs. A big plus are the numerous cozy mountain huts and snow bars along the slopes, which my wife and I certainly don’t want to miss. We meet up for a hearty lunch at a mountain restaurant on the sun terrace. Of course, the obligatory hot chocolate is also a must up here, instantly transporting me back to my childhood. Recharged and full of energy, we’re back on the slopes.

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For our final evening, my wife and I have planned a very special treat: a hammam circuit at the exquisite Palace Spa. I had heard about this oriental ritual many times and was eager to try it. The hammam experience begins with a ritual foot wash. Next, we enter the steam bath, where our senses relax in the warm, moist mist. It feels as if every worry from daily life simply melts away. After the steam bath, we find ourselves in the "Endless Room," a space filled with calming light and soothing music. Here, we completely let go and enjoy the moment as time seems to stand still. Part of the hammam ritual is also a massage. It begins with a soap treatment, where fragrant foam is gently applied to cleanse our skin – a truly sensual experience. This is followed by another visit to the steam bath and total relaxation in the "Floating Pool." Finally, a soothing oil massage awaits us, where skilled hands relieve the tension from the past few days. I am more than impressed by this experience and surrounded by a sense of peace. The Palace Spa has far exceeded our expectations.

Deeply relaxed, we meet up as a family again for dinner at one of the hotel’s restaurants. The twins craved pizza, so we chose Gildo's Ristorante, known for its authentic “cucina italiana.” We were delighted to find that Signore Gildo – after whom the restaurant is named – was personally there. And for us, he prepared his legendary spaghetti, right at our table, of course. What a treat!

Day 4: Farewell to a Winter Fairy Tale

Our time at the Gstaad Palace has flown by, and today, unfortunately, we must say goodbye to this winter paradise. Before we depart, we take one last short walk through the snowy landscape. As we trudge through the glittering snow at Oberbort, I imagine how nature here will bloom in vibrant colors during the summer. The kids have already made plans: they want us to return to “our luxury hotel,” as they now call the Gstaad Palace, for a hiking holiday in Switzerland. My wife and I both agree that this ski vacation at the Gstaad Palace won’t be our last visit to the Saanenland, and we definitely want to return in the summer. Checking out of the hotel goes smoothly – by now, we know nearly all the kind souls by name who took such loving care of us during our stay. Their friendly faces, attention to detail, charm, and humor have enchanted us. Until next time, Gstaad Palace!

Richard, 52, Cherry Hinton, Cambridge

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